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You are here: Home / Foodways / Cane Grinding and Syrup Boiling

Cane Grinding and Syrup Boiling

December 14, 2021Foodways

The morning air bit a little harder than expected for early October, the kind of cold that makes coffee steam dance in the light. In a small metal building tucked in the heart of Coverdale, Georgia, the Cook family gathered close- boots crunching on gravel, hands tucked in pockets- ready to begin a family ritual that has become their own mark of the season: making cane syrup.

It’s a scene that once played out across the South- smoke curling into the air, the sweet smell of boiling cane filling the fields, neighbors stopping by to “check the syrup.” These days, though, the art has nearly disappeared, traded for store shelves and plastic bottles. But not for Sheldon Cook and his family. Since 2015, they’ve made it a point to keep the old ways alive, turning a forgotten craft into a yearly homecoming event.

When the Turner County Project stopped by Pa’s Syrup Shack, the place was already humming. Sheldon’s son, Justin, stood over the kettle, stirring slow circles into the thick, golden syrup that glistened in the firelight. His brother-in-law, Michael Perry, and grandsons Jake Perry, Ben Perry, and Wyatt Cook kept watch, each taking turns helping and teasing the others like it was all part of the recipe.

Inside, the air was warmer and smelled like heaven- biscuits baking, butter melting, and the faint trace of cane syrup drifting in from the door. Granddaughter Georgia Cook stood beside her grandmother, Desiree, brushing flour from her hands as they set out fresh biscuits to taste that first golden pour.

It was more than a day’s work- it was memory in motion. Laughter, labor, and love bound together in the simple act of syrup-making. A reminder that even as time moves on, some sweetness is worth holding onto.


Note: This post will have photos from throughout the years (2015-2021) to give a fuller picture of the process. All videos were filmed in October 2021.

It all starts with Sugar Cane

Planting Sugar Cane in the field. Justin Cook with son, Wyatt Cook (4). Photo by Sarah Mastrario Cook. (September 24, 2015).
Sugar cane, before it is cut, grows in the field on the Cook’s property. Photo by Sarah Mastrario Cook. (November 26, 2021)
Cut sugar cane and a very happy bee in Coverdale, GA. Photo by Sarah Mastrario Cook. (November 26, 2021)
Wyatt Cook (10) and Georgia Lou Cook (5) even help with the harvest. Photo by Sarah Mastrario Cook. (November 26, 2021)

Grinding the Sugar Cane

(October 2021)
(October 2021)
(October 2021)
After the sugar cane is juiced, all that is left is the pulp. Photo by Chris Cook. (November 25, 2017)

Straining Cane Juice

(October 2021)

Cane Syrup Boil

Where the magic happens – Pa’s Syrup Shack on the Cook property in Coverdale, GA. This is the metal building where they cook the syrup all day to get it to the perfect golden, thick color.
(October 2021)
(October 2021)
(October 2021)
(October 2021)
(October 2021)
Wyatt Cook (10) skims the boiling cane juice to remove debris from the syrup. (October 10, 2021)
Sheldon Cook skims the boiling cane juice to remove debris from the syrup. (December 15, 2023)
(October 2021)
(October 2021)
The patriarch of the family, Sheldon Cook, is straining some finished syrup one more time before bottling. Son, Justin Cook, is bottling the syrup in bottles. Grandson, Wyatt Cook, is watching from the right. Photo by Chris Cook. (November 25, 2017)
Son-in-law Michael Perry observes the cane boiling. (October 2021)
Son Justin Cook is straining the liquid gold one more time before bottling. (October 2021)
(October 2021)

Fresh hot cane syrup on a buttermilk biscuit!

Georgia Lou Cook, age 5, makes homemade Buttermilk biscuits. (October 2021)
(October 2021)
(October 2021)

More than a syrup boiling…

More than just a syrup cooking, it’s a celebration of Southern and Turner County traditions- a time to slow down, share stories, and gather around good food. At Pa’s Syrup Shack, the bubbling kettle isn’t just about making syrup; it’s about fellowship, family, and keeping the sweetness of the past alive for another generation.

Family member Robert Greer, husband to Ellen Cook Greer, cooks some BBQ chicken on the grill for those who came to participate and watch the syrup cooking. Photo by Chris Cook. (November 25, 2017)
Dinner on the grounds is a huge part of the cooking day! Photo by Sarah Mastrario Cook. (November 25, 2017).
Photo by Sarah Mastrario Cook. (November 25, 2017).

Local Press

The Wiregrass Farmer
November 30, 2016

Tagged With: Angelia Cook, Ben Perry, biscuits, Cane Syrup Boil, Desiree Cook, Foodways, Georgia Cook, Jake Perry, Justin Cook, Michael Perry, Native Plants, Sarah Mastrario Cook, Sheldon Cook, The Wiregrass Farmer, Wayne Castleberry, Wyatt Cook

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Coverdale, unincorporated

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Comments

  1. Becky Brooks

    November 13, 2025 at 9:31 am

    How can I purchase Pa’s Syrup Shack cane syrup?

    Reply
    • tcproject

      November 14, 2025 at 9:01 am

      I am trying to find out. I heard that they had some at Carroll’s Sausage in Ashburn! I will report back once I hear from the Cooks.

      Reply

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